Cali

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After helping Francisco Pizarro conquer the Incas, Sebastian de Belalcazar quarrelled with his former boss ad moved north to strike out on his own. After founding Quito and Popayan, he arrived at the Valle de Cauca in 1536 where he dubbed his new settlement Santiago de Cali. At the time of his arrival, the fertile valley was inhabited by various indigenous groups, of which the Calima Indians were the most advanced. They initially offered stiff resistance, though in the long run, the real impediment to growth was Cali’s proximity to Popayan, which was the political and economic centre of the region until the end of the 19^th century. But much of Popayan’s wealth came from sugar plantations in the region around Cali. To work the fields, the Spaniards shipped in thousands of African slaves over the centuries, and the African legacy is still very much in evidence today; a significant portion of the population is of African or mixed African and European descent. It was the arrival of the railroad at the beginning of the 20^th century that sealed Cali’s fate. Suddenly cash crops could reach world markets, and the newly rich sugar and coffee barons, needing to reinvest their earnings, built a thriving industrial base. Today the region possesses the most important sugar mills and has one of the largest industrial zones in the country, to the point that Cali is the country’s third city in industrial and commercial importance.

While largely modern and industrial, the city has some interesting colonial buildings.

Cali is known as the “Capital of Salsa”, since this music has penetrated deeply into the regional culture and the inhabitants of the city are accomplished dancers of this rhythm. There are many spots where one can listen to music and go dancing; Some of the best discotheques are found in Juanchito, on the outskirts of Cali.

We meet with Leon and Monique and some of their friends. We go out to Extasis club. This club is devoted 100% to salsa. This is an institution in Cali. It opened 50 years ago!! Our friends tell us their parents used to go there. It’s still very old fashion. Waiters must be the same since the opening…. Old man in dark suits, one struggle to get a smile from them.

Once again, we face a festival of salsa. As familiar tunes are played, couples rush to the dancing floor and display their skills. If you can’t dance, you’re no one in Cali.

Tip of the Day

We stayed at Hotel Casa de Alferez (Ave 9N, no 9-24) is a Sofitel and has nice luxuriously rooms with hardwood floors and small balconies. : Usually 120 usd the double, we got it at 95usd. www.accorhotels.com; email: reserves@hotelcasadelalferez.com.co; Tel: (572) 661 81 11

Be careful when wandering around at night. Best to take a taxi, that is secured (to be called beforehand) . Taxis are metered. The number displayed by the meter corresponds to an amount of money. The Taxi should have the table always available. If they don’t, take the taxi number and complain.

From Armenia to Cali is $15,000 (normal bus, 3 hours). It’s $19,000 with a fast shuttle (2 ½ hours).