Ranakpur - Kumbalgarh

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It takes two hours and half from Udaipur to reach the imposing Kumbalgarh fort. The road is superb, passing through the Araveli mountains. Built by Rana Kumbha in the 15^th century, this remote and isolated fort was the most important Mewar fort after Chittorgarh, and the rulers, sensibly, used to retreat here I times of danger. Unsurprisigly, Kumbalgarh was taken only once in its entire history, ad even the it took the combied armies of Amber, Marwar ad Mughal Emperor Akbar to breach its strong defences, and they only managed to hang onto it for two days. The thick fort walls stretch some 36 kms. They’re wide enough for eight horses to ride abreast and they enclose around 360 temples, as well as palaces, gardens, and 700 cannon bunkers. Palaces are empty, interiors do not present much interest and it’s difficult to get an idea of the life at the height of the fort’s strength. It rains heavily whist we visit, and we don’t enjoy the place as much as we would have liked. The fort complex is well worth exploring though.

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It takes us 1h½ to reach the wonder of Ranakpur. We encounter people of different castes and sub-castes (pointed to us by the driver): jungle dwellers, launderers, camel herders, etc… We also learn that budget and midrange hotels hand your laundry to this caste’s people to wash. In a plunging wooded valley, one can find one of India’s biggest and most important Jain temples. There are three temples.  The main one – Chaumukha Mandir (Four faced Temple) -  is dedicated to Adinath ad built in 1439. It’s an incredible building in milk white marble – a complicated series of 29 halls supported by a forest of 1444 pillars, no two of which are alike. The interior is completely covered in knotted carving. The devotion of its builders is shown in this complex architecture ad loving carving, and the interior has an unparalleled sense of space and harmony.

The Jain temple of Ranakpur is one of Rajasthan’s highlight. Not to be missed.

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We experience mechanical problem on our way to Jodhpur. The radiator is broken. We have the possibility to enjoy India’s reality when it comes to efficiency. It will take us at least 1 hour and half and two cities to find someone able to fix a radiator; Once a genius is found, thigs go smoothly, and an hour and half later, our beautiful car’s radiator is like new. Though Jodhpuris not that far away, we got a cautious driver and he seem to struggle to drive faster than 60km/hour. By the roads, we notice loads of people marching, all going in the same direction. With some wearing flags, walking barefoot, with barely a bag with them, we finally inderstand those are pilgrims. Some will walk more than 400 kms, along the road, sleeping on the open, to reach a specific temple. They all are joyful, and sing. Groups are 10 people maximum. If this was ever needed, another proof of India’s profound religiosity and spirituality.

We arrive quite late at our hotel. A beautiful haveli, at the deep heart of the old city, it is perfectly located. We’ve booked the  Maharana suite, with stunning views over the fort. We have dinner in its very atmospheric restaurant. Great way to finish this exhausting day.

Tips:

In Jodhpur, Hotel Singhvi’s Haveli. 800Rs the double (no breakfast included but fabulous pancakes on the menu). A budget option that is better than a lot of mid range ones we’ve seen in most parts of the world. Staff is the most welcoming and nice we’ve encountered in India. The Maharana suite is very atmospheric and fantastic value for money. Book ahead (at least 5 days in advance) as this haveli is often full. The restaurant is very nice, (but only veg), superb setting. We had to leave the next morning because the hotel was fully booked. The staff recommended another one (that was even better) and helped us to get a discount. Staff can be trusted, genuine people.

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