01 juillet 2006
Meet Jane Goodall
Rita went last week to Uganda and met Jane Goodall. That was the first time the two met, and they seemed to have a lot to say to each other. Rita was amazed by the determination of this woman and her charisma. Certainly the highlight of their encounter - among the numerous stories Jane tells - is when she starts imitating chimpanzees when they greet each other...in the midst of a posh reception at an embassy. Superb!
Rita était en Ouganda la semaine passée et a eu la chance de rencontrer Jane Goodall. C'était la première fois qu'elles se rencontraient et elle avaient apparement beaucoup de choses à se dire. La détermination et le charisme de cette femme sont surprenants. L'un des hauts moments de leur rencontre - parmi toutes les histoires que Jane raconte - est lorsqu'elle imite les chimpanzés se saluer. En plein milieu d'une soirée guindée d'une ambassade. Effet garanti !
14 juin 2006
Kisoro
The road from Mbarara to Kisoro is a wrinkled path where your maximum speed could reach 40km/hour. The villages are scattered next to the main road and people are busy and very helpful when you ask for assistance and they rarely ask for assistance in return, something that has gradually changed with the proximity to the Congolese region!
So what's in Kisoro? You think: Oh of course the mountain gorillas on the Uganda side. As we check in the hotel, the employee asks us when we are going to track the gorillas. Actually, we didn't come here for this costly and widespread tourist attraction. The city is quite pleasant and the hotel is the oldest in the region who has seen such frequent visitors as Dian Fossey and other remarkable gorrilla lovers. We spend the evening next to the chimney, in the lounge full of travel and gorilla books that suddenly transported us into 'travel mode dreaming state'. After a day of travelling through the west of Uganda from Fort Portal, a well deserved dinner and sleep awaited us.
In the morning I go to meet with an NGO having interesting projects that offer an exchange and learning opportunity. So I drive with Dick (his real name) up to a place with a very nice scenery. A very beautiful fishless lake called Mutanda lies below us with a huge wetland transformed into an agricultural space. He then tells me that there is no fish in the lake and their project works towards providing fry (little fish), drawing the community away from the massacred wetlands towards fishing activities that are more lucrative than growing crops and thus reviving the economy, protecting the wetlands and promoting tourism.
We then go to visit the fish ponds where african catfish, tilapia and capitaine is grown. The idea is simple and straightforward, yet it is the first reliable fry farm in western Uganda and Eastern DRC.
I return to the hotel and we go in town for some souvenir shopping - as if the supercarmarket was not yet full - before driving back through Cyanika in Rwanda and Gisenyi on our way to Goma.
13 juin 2006
Queen Elisabeth National Park
Queen Elisabeth National Park spreads over an area of 1978 km2 in the western arm of the Great East Rift Valley. It is home to a variety of wildlife including elephants, lions, hippos, buffalo, Uganda Kob, baboons, chimpanzees, and a large variety of birds including the famous crowned crane, all typical of riverine and savannah habitats.
In the southern part of the park is the Ishasha area with the climbing lions and the Maramagambo, one of the largest surviving natural forests in Uganda. The northen part of the park is traversed by the equator and is dominated by the scenery of crater lakes with number of flamingoes on occasion.
A launch trip from Mweya lodge along the Kazinga channel which joins lake Edward and Lake George provides a great experience of the park and is excellent for bird watching.
11 juin 2006
Fort Portal's market
You know we love markets. I can't resist posting this photo taken at Fort Portal.
10 juin 2006
Crater lakes
With views of the Rwenzori and a pleasant climate, one does come to Fort Portal to visit the town but the surrounding district. With Kibale Forest National Park, Semliki National Park, Semliki Game Reserve and the outstanding crater lakes, there is enough to justify several days exploring the region. Unfortunately, I do not have this time! So I decided to concentrate on the crater lakes area. 21 kms south of the city lies Lake Nyabikere (meaning lake of frogs) I keep on driving, take some side roads and there are plenty hidden gems. (200 crater kakes in total!) This is the end of the day and the colours are superb.
the gift of the day: a double rainbow
09 juin 2006
Kampala
traffic jam in Kampala
Kampala is built on seven hills, the city center is on just one of them, Nakasero. The top half of the hill is a garden city of wide, quiet avenues lined with large houses behind imposing fences and a golf course. Embassies, international aid organizations, up market hotels, government offices and the rich reside here. The bottom half of Nakesero hill is a world away from this, composed of shops, small businesses, budget hotels, cheap restaurants, street markets, Hindu temples, the bus station and taxi parks. The streets in this congested area overflow with people, battered old cars, lottery ticket sellers and pavement stalls offering everything from rubber stamps to radio repairs.
We don't stay long, enough time to rob several malls...
Kampala has become a modern, bustling capital, after suffering a great deal during the years of civil strife. Under President Museveni the city has gone from a looted shell to a thriving city befitting the capital of one of the most rapidly developing countries in Africa. The electricity works, clean water comes out of the taps, damaged buildings are now habitable, many new ones have gone up, and the shops and markets are once again well stocked. There are casinos, nightclubs and fancy restaurants. Compared to neighboring African cities it's safe place to stroll around.
08 juin 2006
Selling fruits
06 juin 2006
A Pelican on the lake Victoria - Un pelican sur le lac Victoria
As we're on our way to Ngamba Island, we encounter this superb pelican.
En chemin verrs l'île de Ngamba, rencontre avec ce superbe pélican.
05 juin 2006
Chimps in Ngamba Island - Les chimpanzés de l'île de Ngamba
Every year in Africa, approximately 5,000 chimpanzees are killed by poachers for the bushmeat trade: As a byproduct of this illegal practice; dozens of infant chimps are taken alive from the forest, bound for the pet trade throughout Africa and the rest of the world. Ngamba Island is a project of the Chimpanzees Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust (CSWCT), established in 1997 by the Born Free Foundation, International Fund for Animal Welfare, the Jane Goodall Institute, the Uganda Wildlife Education Center Trust (UWECT) and the Zoological Board of New South Wales and it provides these orphaned chimpanzees with a secure home to live out their lives, since a return to their natural habitat is not possible, while educating visitors and local communities about their remarkable species and the importance of conserving their fragile forest habitat.
Ngamba Island is part of the Koome group of islands located on Lake Victoria 23 km south of Entebbe, Uganda. It consists of 100 acres (approximately 40 hectares), 98 of which are forested and separated from the visitors area by an electric fence. The island is set up as an eco-friendly project with compost toilets, rainwater collection, proper waste management practices and solar energy (for electricity and hot water). The normal habitat range required of q wild chimpanzee community is 1 square kilometre per individual. Ngamba Island is almost half a square kilometre, therefore perfect habitat for only one chimpanzee. This relates much to the required quantities of foods needed by chimpanzees. The Ngamba Island forest cannot sustain a community of this size so they have to supplement feed them. You can help support this project by visiting. The entrance and activity fees paid goes directly towards helping cover the recurring costs of the island sanctuary and ensuring the well being of the chimpanzees.
Chaque année en Afrique, 5000 chimpanzés sont tués par les braconniers pour être ensuite vendus pour être mangés. En plus de cette activité illégale, des dizaines de bébés chimpanzés sont capturés vivants et ensuite vendus comme animaux de compagnie. Le sanctuaire de l'île de Ngamba est un projet mis en place par plusieurs organisations internationales de préservation de la nature. Il vise à offrir aux chimpanzés orphelins un endroit sécurisé, à l'abri des braconniers, où ils peuvent vive en paix. Le projet vise également à éduquer et sensibiliser les visiteurs sur cette espèce en danger et l'importance de préserver leur habitat. L'île de Ngamba fait partie du groupe d'îles Koome, sur le lac Victoria, à 23 kms au sud d'Entebbe en Ouganda. Elle est coupée en deux : 98% n'est que de la jungle, le reste (séparé par une grille électrifiée) sert à la mise en place du centre de recherche et de support, ainsi que pour l'accueil des visiteurs. Cette île peut se visiter aisément à partir d'Entebbe.. Les bénéfices tirés des visites de ce sanctuaire (où l'on peut passer la nuit dans de superbes tentes aménagées) vont directement à l'ONG qui se charge de ce projet, et ainsi participer à la préservation de ces chimpanzés.
04 juin 2006
Meat for sale - Une brochette en chemin
On our way to Kampala, we stop by this small village. This man tries his luck selling his goat brochettes to all travellers passing by. We're not much hungry at that point, and I am not quite sure it's all that fresh anyway...
Sur la route menant à Kampala, nous nous arrêtons à ce village. Cet hommes se préciipte vers nous pour nous vendre ses brochettes de chèvre. Ce sera pour une autre fois : on n'a pas très faim, et le tout ne m'inspire pas, ca ne semble ps très frais tout ça...
