28 août 2008
Jellyfish
22 août 2008
Fish day
.
We definitely don’t want to leave Japan without watching a kabuki show. We’ll tell you more about it tomorrow. So our first mission of the day is to get out tickets. We then head to the world’s largest aquarium. The entrance is amazing and you get to see the fish up-close. There are lots of different sorts of aquatic animals, from seals to penguins, to sharks, manta rays and the magnificent whale shark. We stroll from one place to another like kids. Don’t miss the jellyfish right at the end. Their colours and shapes are incredible. We then go to the 3D movie theatre, one of the biggest in the world. We choose the underwater theme. It’s a first time for us and we find the concept really nice and moving. I felt like on a guided dive while lying nicely in a comfortable chair.
.
Some shopping is inevitable and we go to the train station for that. We’re thrilled by the lift hostesses, with their all matching outfit and white gloves asking you where you would like to go and introducing what’s on every floor!
We go out and it becomes once again a challenge to find the places we are looking for.
Cellar is a place where it is said there is some good live music, but not tonight, so no luck for us!
After looking around for some time, we settle at Sol, a ‘typical’ Spanish tapas bar. We drink wine, eat some Spanish specialities, and enjoy our last night out in Japan.
.
Tips of the day
Entry to aquarium for 2000¥. It’s expensive but worth it. When purchasing a ticket there, discount for the 3D movie can be had (500¥ instead of 1000¥)
We lunch at Kushimaro restaurant at the top floor of the Tempozan centre, just by the aquarium. There are all sorts of skewers that you enjoy putting in the batter mix and then in the fondue style table and taste weird things.
Shopping at Kita, just by the Osaka station. Two great shopping places: Hep5 and Est. Otherwise, there are the usual big shopping malls
The whole Dotombori area caters for visitors and it can be surprisingly hard to find a good restaurant. Best to head to back streets instead of the main ones. There are few exceptions here and there though.
Going out in that area requires some good planning. One needs to know the good spots and going out with a Japanese who knows the city may be the best asset. There are many bars that cater to lonely men, and it may be challenging for a foreign visitor to find a normal lively bar. At least, it was for us: despite getting the good addresses – those were either close, impossible to find, or empty…
18 août 2008
Nagasaki and arrival to Osaka
.
We ride our bikes to the Nagasaki Cathedral that was destroyed during the bombing. Ironically, the epicentre of the atomic bomb was just the cathedral in Japan’s only renown Christian town. Very little is left, some statues and stones. We then go to the memorial of the bombing that is less impressive than the one in Hiroshima.
We pick up a bento at the train station and head to Osaka in the silent car train to the city that never sleeps.
Osaka attracts you immediately by its lights, skyscrapers, small alleys, and that non-stop car and human traffic jam. Jeremie had selected a list of 3 or 4 places to hang out: concert bars, night clubs and other concepts. We hit the streets motivated and all stylish looking. Then we hit another street. And another street full of night clubs on signs on each and every floor. Our eyes quickly get busy looking at names of clubs we want to go to. Even though we are going in the right direction, we just can’t say where we are going. We could have tried a club for the luck but the codes are very different here and we could easily stumble on a girls club or an adapted Japanese invention that we didn’t have the working manual for. By around 1 am, we manage to find one of the clubs we were looking for but it is closed! We are tired and have seen so much of Osaka’s streets for one night, so we head to our mattress club.
Tips of the day
At Osaka, we stayed at Dotombori hotel, right at the heart of the entertainment district. Semi double room can be had for 9000Y. (if one wishes breakfast, you would pay a whopping 1000¥ more per person) The room is very small, it’s not really sound proof.
Nagasaki museum is interesting, slightly different presentation than Hiroshima but covering same issues
Dinner at Osaka at Krungtep, nice Thai meal.
29 juillet 2008
Nagasaki
.
Decidedly on our bikes, we are thrilled by the interminable maze of Nagasaki’s roads. We’ve biked in all the cities so far except for Tokyo and found it incredibly pleasant, most parts of cities being flat. Until we got to the Dutch slopes.
We safely parked our two wheels in the neighbourhood to admire the romantic uphill roads around the Dutch slopes. There are flowers with magic colours along the colonial mansions and colourful wooden and brick buildings. This port city used to be Japan’s gateway to the West. We can feel today the inheritance of the foreigners and Dutch who used to live here until today, through the architecture, the roots of Christianity and… the abundance of tulips.
The Glover garden offers a nice old times atmosphere, an interesting history of ambitious and successful men from the west, and great views over Nagasaki city and port.
Nagasaki’s foreign businessmen community also included Chinese who continue to live here. We stop in the Chinese quarter for a quick lunch before sneaking a peek at the city’s trademark: the ‘Spectacle bridge’. It gets it names from its reflection on the river.
.
.
We’re very tired physically and spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing at the hotel.
There seems to be some nice bars in Nagasaki, but finding one’s way in this city is far from easy. It’s difficult to get hold of maps in English and streets don’t have names. Most bars seem to be close (or within) the red light district. There are dozens of “entertaining” bars with loads of lightly dressed ladies, luring businessmen to spend their hard earned money on their charms.
We look at least for an hour, going back and forth searching for places like Music Inn, Fan Fan, Zuccini, etc. but no chance.
We give up, and head towards the Ohato harbour. At the pier, there is a bar (we forgot the name but there is the word Bay in there). There are lots of businessmen, and 2 or 3 OL (office ladies as female employees are called). We have some cocktails and bar food (Meitaki) before the magician show begins. Everyone stands up and gathers, listens to the fast talk and watch a show we don’t really understand, then they laugh and go back to their seats. We’re in that scene when Bull Murray is in a purple looking bar and everyone is laughing around, but he doesn’t understand the reason…
Tips for the day:
Train from Hiroshima to Nagasaki takes around 3 hours.
Entry fee to Glover garden is 600¥. Recommended.
Chinatown is quite small. Nothing to compare to Yokohama.
Lunch at Kyoka-en, an average Chinese restaurant in Chinatown.
In Nagasaki, we stay at Comfort Hotel, for 7,500¥. Hotels in Nagasaki are less expensive than in other cities. The Comfort hotel is not as nice as its sister in Hiroshima, but given the very little time we spend in our room, we don’t care much.
20 juin 2008
Hiroshima, heavy with history and tragedy
.
A southern city, small by Japanese standards, with around 1 million inhabitants, Hiroshima conveys a unique and tragic memory on the worldwide maps and history books since August 1945. Today, we forget that we are on a fantastic visit to Japan. We go back in time to revisit one of the darkest pages in the history of human kind.
The peace memorial museum presents the masterminds and the historical events that lead to the atomic bombing of Hiroshima and - 3 days later - Nagasaki. 
There are vibrating audiovisual testimonies on the aftermath of the bombing, the death and misery, the various unexplainable effects of radiation, and above all, its continued effects until today on the survivors’ lives. The exhibits explain in technical mechanisms and cold indifferent words, the various stages of the nuclear reaction. The last part draws the scary nuclear race, retracing the technologies developed during the cold war until today and the efforts of the Hiroshima and worldwide communities for peace and the abolition of nuclear weapons.
The visit left us speechless and with grim reflections of the future. Beautiful flowers are offered everyday in remembrance of the victims in front of the solemn peace monument.
We are very surprised by the ability of the Japanese to remember the tragedy and equally forgive the world for its indulgence and indifference to the continuous nuclear tests and armament in front of the peace efforts. There are fingers pointed, but very gracefully, with the wiser smile of a parent.
Despite its association with the human tragedy, Hiroshima has long risen from the rubble and is a wonderful city with large avenues, and small buildings on both sides of the river with the streetcars (tramway) that give it an old-time charm.
.
On the path of history, we take the earliest train to Nagasaki in the afternoon. Later in the day, we have a nice bike stroll looking for a jazz bar that appears to be closed. We take bikes and ride around and end up in the red light district; lots of prostitutes and salary men, visibly drunk. It’s definitely a very different facet of Japan that we have not seen so far.
With its narrow backside roads, small eateries, and neon lights, Nagasaki has a typical – somehow fishy but full of charm – south east Asian feel.
We continue riding and end up at Ayer’s Rock bar where we sip our ritual cocktails. The place is truly underground, very dark. If techno and DJs are your thing, you’ll love the place.
Tip of the Day
In Hiroshima, we stay at Comfort Hotel, a business hotel. There are three Confort hotel, we stay at the most modern one (slightly more expensive, but still a great bargain – 8400¥). Good service, free bikes, free internet and nice breakfast. Coffee (included espresso) free of charge whenever guests want!
Lunch: at Fukuya shopping mall on the 11th floor at the Italian restaurant, great deal at 1100¥ / person with salad, dessert and a drink. But food is nothing to write home about. Views from the restaurant are great though.
In Hiroshima, we have a drink in a great bar (Opium) that also serves decent basic meal.
A trip by street car in Hiroshima costs only 150¥. It costs 100¥ in Nagasaki.
13 juin 2008
Takayama – As cold as it gets
We wake up to a white Takayama. In the room it’s hot like a sauna bath and we could hardly believe when we open the window that it has been snowing all night. It takes enormous will to get out of bed and walk to the morning market at Miya-gawa. The town is really small by Japanese standards and we walk around quietly to discover one sight after the other. The ticket for the Takayama Yatai Kaikan with festival floats is really overpriced unless you’re really interested in Matsuri (a traditional Japanese festival). The museum is quite disappointing. However, it includes entrance to the nearby Sakurayama Nikko-Kan with miniature models of Nikko shrines very neatly displayed.
.
Sunshine is back and the melting snow is dripping from the tiled roofs. We take a walk in the traditional streets, and have furtive looks inside the alleys and houses. The sunshine is gone again and it starts snowing. We take refuge in some sake breweries and sample various kinds of sake…at 10 in the morning. The only sake that lasts longer than 3 months ends up in our shopping bag. (sake doesn’t last, once a bottle is open, it should be drunk within a week, a month maximum) To recover from the sake taste, we drop in the next merchant house and taste a good miso soup that warms us up.
We go back in the street and we can barely move our fingers from the cold. We take refuge again in a good restaurant where we taste the famed Hida beef in sukiyaki style. It’s still snowing. This is as cold - and as rural as it gets for us in Japan.
We hop on the next train to Hiroshima and have a big nap on the last train section. On arrival, we haven’t even decided where to sleep or how to get there. With the help of a very nice gentleman, we get to destination and even have a bike ride around the city and take a quick look at the Atomic-Bomb Dome – the hypocenter of the atomic bomb on Hiroshima - lighted from the inside.
Tip of the day:
Country Hotel Takayama, just facing the station at 11,000¥ the double room including breakfast is a no frills business hotel. Breakfast is included and is just ok.
In Takayama, we have a sukiyaki lunch at Suzuya restaurant with great thin Hida beef slices.
29 mai 2008
From Tokyo to Takayama, a journey through rural Japan
.
Before leaving Tokyo, we check the temperatures for Takayama, which look reasonable. We don’t get to see Mount Fuji today either, but later on, as we are far from cities, the scenery is one of the most beautiful I have seen. Dramatic pine forests, narrow shallow valleys, lakes and rivers, surrounded by cloudy mountains and traditional Japanese tiled houses. We arrive pretty late to Takayama and don’t feel like wandering around under the rain.
We take some time to reflect on our itinerary and plan for tomorrow. We have a nice dinner and drinks at Murazaki Izakaya.
Tip of the day:
When taking the train from Tokyo to Nagoya, get a seat on the right hand side of the train. On a clear day, you may be able to spot Sir Fuji. From Nagoya to Takayama (train almost every hour, for a two hours journey), take a seat on the right hand side of the train also. The scenery is superb.
In Takayama, dinner at Murazaki Izakaya, that is a Japanese pub. Inexpensive drinks and food. Nice atmosphere.
Great skewers with rice, cheese and bacon. It’s cold in this city. Be prepared.
26 mai 2008
Edo Museum
.
As usual, we keep the best for our last day. At the Edo museum we are lucky to have a nice lady as a tourist guide, in French. The permanent exhibition is very well thought and depicts historical events as well as daily life and traditions in ancient Tokyo. The love of miniatures is evident everywhere. Ms “Samedi” - as she wants us to call her - gives us great insights on lifestyle and historical significance. There is also a section about Tokyo in war times and its evolution towards modern times. A very nice museum, warmly recommended.
Without success, we spend some time looking for the Sumo museum nearby but nobody seems to know where it is. No luck. We got to Tokyo just after the end of the Sumo tournament and everyone in the Sumo business is now taking a rest. Instead, we have lunch next to the JR station, in a sumo stadium setting.
We revisit Harajuku, and Takeshita dori for a last time and take some interesting snaps. An incredibly stylish shop is on our way – Hajori - with vintage clothing, in style. Tokyo style.
It’s rather expensive and we don’t find anything to our liking, but the atypical décor alone is worth a visit.
The nearby Oriental bazaar has nothing of a bazaar and all of a small shopping mall. There are some nice, beautifully displayed souvenirs to be sampled.
Heavy loaded with shopping bags, we take a walk through back roads full of stylish shops, ending with the striking and inspiring architecture of the Prada building.
At this stage, we’re really tired but we don’t want to admit it. It would be a shame to leave Tokyo without spending an evening in Roppongi, one of the main Tokyo’s nightlife district. The night scene is somehow different here with many foreign residents and tourists checking out the atmosphere. We’re a bit early and many bars are still empty. TGI Fridays looks quite animated. We also acknowledge our need for hearty hot food and hop in. The mood is really great and we get a cool barmen show.
After a few drinks, we end up in bed before even thinking of packing our bags for tomorrow’s departure…
23 mai 2008
From China to Sweden (with love)
Yokohama - Tokyo’s “undermined” neighbour - is our destination today. The metropolis is so big, officials apparently are struggling to tell where Tokyo ends and Yokohama starts.
Yokohama is not another big city, shadowed by its older sister’s reputation. It’s a city with its own character and interests. It boasts the largest Chinatown in Japan. Apart from enjoying the fabulous Chinese food, our objective is to find our beloved special Jasmine tea (special as there is a unique blend we are simply addicted to). Some shops seem to have the genuine stuff, but our nose won’t be easily tricked. Eventually, we find a small joint by chance and halleluiah, the perfect Jasmine was patiently awaiting us. We take the opportunity to smell some other teas, and decide for a specific kind of Oolong. We usually are not too keen on Oolong tea, but this one had a wonderful smell and we decide to give it a try.
One street away but two different worlds. In Chinatown the streets are noisy, there are restaurants on all sides of the street, and shops full with bric a brac up to the ceiling. It brings back good memories of our trip there. (Two years ago already, time really flies…)
After a nice lunch in an elegant restaurant, we decide to travel back to Europe. Scandinavia to be more accurate. In Lebanon, I have been checking whether any IKEA shop could be found in this part of the world. None in Tokyo but Yokohama hosts one. Jeremie had no chance but to follow my desire to enjoy my Nordic design favourite. We spend around 4 hours touring the place and eventually buying some nice stuff.
Tip of the day
In Chinatown, cheap tea can be find at around 1000¥/100grs. For genuine, high quality stuff, Jasmine and Oolong can be had at around 3000¥/100 grs. Not cheap but well worth it.
Lunch at Heichinro Honten, in Chinatown main street. Nice setting in this elegant restaurant where you can sample in creative dumplings.
To go to IKEA, take a JR to Shin-Yokohama station (not to be confused with Yokohama station). There is a free IKEA bus shuttle (running back and forth every 20 mns).
19 mai 2008
Looking for MtFuji
We may have broken the record of number of transportation means today. We leave the big city behind, looking for green scenery.
Here we go to Hakone, the place where a lot of Tokyoites go to unwind during the week-end. We experience once again the fabulous Japanese timeliness and organisation when it comes to transportation means. We reach lake Ashi. We left Tokyo with a superb sunshine, meaning big chances to see Mt Fuji. Hakone boasts the best views of the famous mountain. Let me cut the suspense straight away. No Mont Fuji for us today. We see beautiful photos of postcards. What we get is clouds and mists.
At the port, we board an imitation of a 17th century British ship. With all the Japanese comfort of course. The ride on the lake does not take more than 30 mns. We look for Sir Fuji, but nowhere to be seen. The views on the lake are very nice though. We have barely arrived at the other end of the lake that people start queuing to take the funicular. That’s also (with clear weather allowing) a very fine spot to see you-know-what. No chance. It’s windy, cloudy, and now…. rainy!
Ahead of us are some sulphur spots where one can wander around. After two years in volcanic Goma, we can’t really say we did not have our share of volcanic settings. We decide to give it a miss (especially under a heavy rain) and take refuge in the restaurant. We fall in the tourist trap and try the black egg: only the egg shell is black. (what else did we expect?) We try the Japanese pork curry (with noodles for Jeremie and rice for Rita) that turns out to be very tasty.
It’s decidedly cold and we call it a day. We queue to take a cable car so that we can queue to take a train, so that we queue again when we need to take a second train that will lead us to our wait (hey, first in line…) for our Shinkansen.
We head straight to Shibuya - our favourite neighbourhood in Tokyo. We look around for some shops before reaching the Mecca of Manga. Anyone even with a vague interest in comics should have a look at Mandarake. This shop is 3 floors below the street, and when entering, one discover thousands of manga comics, duly distributed. There are also some posters, Tshirts, and figurines. But the bulk of it are mangas; whatever one is looking for, it’s there. Whether new or second hand. Too bad, there are almost none in English.
.
Jeremie was very nice today and has deserved his reward: a lengthy tour at Tower Records. This shop is the largest music shop in the world. It’s just massive. Seven stories high, full of CDs. Every genre can be found here; from international pop to techno, from classical to world music, and from jazz to hard rock. The seventh floor is devoted to books and should not be missed. Once again, the choice of books and mangas, all in English, is great.
Tip of the day
Free transport pass for Hakone: weekdays, costs 3900Y, valid for 2 days
Check the website for live situation to check whether the weather is fine. Hakone area lies between 700 and 1000 m high and it can rain heavily there whilst it’s sunshine in Tokyo.
