15 janvier 2007
Faces of India
Just to inform you we've just added a new photo album.
The theme: Faces of India.
15 octobre 2006
Renting a car and driver in India
Renting a car and driver in India is a great way to move around. We just came back from our trip to India, and we thought we would give some tips to ensure the trip remains hassle-free if you decide to take this option. Having a car and driver has a lot of advantages. No time lost in public transports, you go from point A to point B at your convenience. You eat when you are hungry not when the bus reaches destination, you go the bathroom whenever you want, no need to rush for breakfast or wait under pouring rain for a rickshaw or bus. There's no queuing and hassles to get bus/train tickets. You reach remote locations or sites of interests quickly and with no problem. This is the first time we do that, and though it does not facilitate encounters with people, it was really useful when visiting Rajasthan.
There are a lot of people travelling to India and renting a car has become a popular option. Let's face it, though the majority of drivers or travel agencies are honest, one can still encounter less honest ones. There are scams, and travellers sometimes report problems with their drivers. So best is to be prepared.
The price you are quoted should include: the rent of the car, car's insurance, fuel, illimited kms, driver's salary, driver's accomodation, driver's food, road taxes, and parking fees. You thus agree on a price, and you should not worry about anything else afterwards.
Car type: The car you'll be proposed often is a Tata Indica. It's a small car, with not so much space to put luggages. Another popular option is the Ambassador. Of course, ask the owner how old is the car and number of kms. (roads are not good in India, and cars deteriorate quickly) There are taxes to pay when entering a state, so if you plan to visit several states, the price you'll be quoted will be higher. Check if you want a car with A/C or not (the difference between the two is around 2 usd per day). Price varies, quality also. If you are being quoted an excellent price, it's likely there's something wrong. Either the car is not great, or the driver plans on making his profit during the trip (by getting commissions from places where he'll push you to stay). It's definitely best to pay the normal price and then have a hassle free journey.
Currency : you'll be quoted in US dollars or Euros. Rates being different, make sure you're not being ripped off here.
If you start your journey straight away, you can ask to be picked up at the airport. This service can be complimentary. If you wish to use the car in Dehli, you can have special price for those days (we got 10 usd per day in Dehli and free pick up and drop at the airport)
Don't pay anything before arriving. Upon arrival, it's customary to pay half the price, and pay the balance at the end of your trip. If you pay everything upon arrival, you're stuck with your driver (and unlikely to get your money back) if you experience any problem - whether with the driver or unforeseen events.
Important thing to make clear from the onset: you are the one in charge. So you decide your itinerary, you decide where you stay, where you eat, and how you use the car. Drivers often try to save their accomodation allowance (1 or 2 usd a day) by "advising" you where to stay. Be aware that competition between hotels and guest houses is fierce. Most hotels "recommended" actually offer free food and accomodation to drivers. Be firm with your driver on where you want to stay, and bear in mind recommendations are rarely genuine. Don't overlook this, drivers can be very insistent.
- Drivers also try not to stay on parkings, as it increases their company (or their own pocket) cost. Make clear with your driver that it's ok, as long as you don't end up waiting hours for him to show up. (it happened to us...)
Tipping: drivers usually get very low salaries. Tipping a driver in India is common place. But it's not mandatory. Of course, if you're not happy with the service, don't tip. Otherwise I'd say it's between 1 to 3 usd a day. To give you an idea, we gave a 50 usd tip for a 19 day trip.
The company we've used is the one managed by Bobby Thakur. That's the best price we've found, with good service. Bobby can be reached by email and he knows what he's talking about. He'll do anything he can to ensure the customer is happy (the fact that travellers could complain on travel forums about poor quality of service is a strong incentive to provide good quality service). Though our driver was not perfect, we found Bobby to be very helpful and he sorted out our - small - problem. We thus have no hesitation to recommend his company. (this should not prevent you from ensuring the above is followed). He can be contacted at bobbythakur3@rediffmail.com
What did we pay for renting our car? We were quoted 475 USD for 14 days, that included 4 states. Any additional day would be 32 usd (provided it's within the same states), and 10 usd for any day in Dehli and free pick up at the airport. It was an Ambassador with aircon.
Drivers know about travel forums and they will often propose their service through that channel. Some are more subtle (to put it politely) and pretend they are travellers and recommend a driver who actually is... themselves! So if you want a reliable advice, make sure the advice is genuine.
We'd recommend to use a company rather than a independant driver. If you face problems (mechanical problem with the car or the driver is not nice or too pushy) a company will be able to solve the problem (change the car or the driver). With an independant driver, it's going to be difficult to sort out any problem.
13 octobre 2006
Plane Behaviour
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The line to get the boarding pass checked was everything but a line: the French expression ‘file Indienne’ should be in relation with the North American Indians.
Before departure, some people start wondering what all these buttons in their seat separators are for. So they start pushing them, observing carefully what the button will trigger. Some keep on pushing the flight attendant call button way after take off, without realising the sound it makes; the hostess rarely comes to the call. Other people think it is a ‘fasten your seatbelt’ sound and start wondering what is wrong. Some wink at each other as they put the headphones on… to listen to the safety instructions. Many passengers feel compelled to do things they would never do otherwise; like avidly searching for the in-flight magazine or the free newspaper his neighbour managed to get.
Many people look uninterested by the action, but, make no mistake, they too want to benefit from all the in-flight services. They may throw a look at the safety instructions, but they act like it’s not for them, the frequent travellers.
It has always struck me. Contagious behaviour. You eat because everyone is eating, you force yourself to watch the movie that’s making the passenger in front of you laugh.
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12 octobre 2006
Shopping tips for Rajasthan
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Back to Dehli where we head to the underground bazaar for some shopping. Nothing exceptional to talk about. Here are some general shopping tips and prices for Rajasthan.
- Patchwork handbag (usual size): 100 Rps. – Jaipur
- Silk patchwork bed cover without embroidery: Do not pay more than 2000 Rps. The ones sold in Jaipur and Udaipur tend to be the most expensive but you find good quality in Udaipur.
- Rajasthani puppets: The cheapest ones (same quality) will be offered to you during the elephant ride to Amber Fort in Jaipur: 2 for 20 Rps.
- Bindis (frontal marks for Hindu women): 2 to 10 Rps. a set depending on sophistication
- Tie and dye skirts found everywhere: not more than 150 Rps.
- Leather items (found everywhere in Jaisalmer): there is everything from shoes to handbags or travel bags. Though items are smelly, they are good quality. Do not be fooled by the claims that some are from camel skin. Do not pay more than 450 Rps. for a handbag and no more than 100 Rps. for a cowboy style hat.
- Good Bollywood films to buy include: Devdas, Sholay, Mississipi Masala, Moonsoon Wedding and other movies by Mira Nair. For original ones, between 250 and 500 Rps. Make sure there are English subtitles.
- Good books to buy about India: A fine balance and Family Matters by Rohinton Mistry. The City of Joy by Dominique la Pierre. And also ‘The God of Small Things’, ‘A princess remembers’, ‘May you be the mother of 100 sons’ by various authors. There are also good cooking books and many books about the Kama Sutra philosophy that are interesting. It is normal to negociate prices even on books. If the book is printed in India, check the quality first and pay no more than 250 Rps for an Indian publication.
- Chocolate bar (small): 5 Rps.
- Bottle of mineral water: insist on paying 10 Rps outside restaurants, even if it is cold
- Spices: best market in Jodhpur. If you buy for more than 1000 Rps. from MV Spices, ask for a bag of spices as gift.
- Rajasthani shirts (best found in Jaisalmer): between 80 and 200 Rps.
- Cotton scarves: there are different qualities and many will try selling you the presumably ‘silk and cotton’ or ‘silk pashmina’ but unless you can judge that yourself, don’t play the game. It consists of the seller asking you first which one you like, and then suddenly this exact one becomes of the finest quality and worth 500 Rps. Real prices vary between 80 to 100 Rps: for a normal cotton scarf, 250 for Wool and cotton, around 250 or more for a silk one, and from 500 to as much as 1500 Rps for a fine pashmina scarf.
Tips for Dehli:
Lunch at Embassy. Food ok. A bit pricey.
Diner at Chor Bizarre Restaurant, at the Broadway Hotel. Very nice setting, very good food. Good service. Recommended.
6 hours to go back to Delhi, for only 200 kms.
11 octobre 2006
People of Rishikesh
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10 octobre 2006
Rishikesh
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I sit on the hotel veranda facing one of the numerous ghats. It is early morning. The sound of the bells announcing daily aarti by the neighbouring temple got me out of bed. The water in the mighty river is going one way, carrying with it the sacred rituals that fervent believers had deposited with care in the hands of mother Ganga last night at 7.30 pm. 
Petals of roses, flower beads, banana leaves, and the rest of candles seem to have divorced from the beautiful floral arrangement that they constituted last night. The feeling I had last night during aarti is still there, the smell of incense is somehow dissipated in the air. I feel I could sit like that for hours (though many of you know it is not in my nature to stay inert for more than 2 minutes). Another set of rose petals come my way, and then disappears, mixed with the odours and sins that Hindus have rigorously rubbed away from their bodies and souls. They all melt together to become part of the grey water and eventually, go with the flow.
We leave early for Rishikesh. It takes us almost an hour to get to the birthplace of Yoga. The car leaves us outside the city, before the big pedestrian bridge. No cars are allowed here. We visit one small temple – Shri Adi Badrinath Dwarika Dhish Temple - with the usual suspects: Vishnu, Krishna, Ganesh, and friends.
We cross the bridge over the Ganges and head towards the multi storey Laxmajhula Temple with its impressive collection of gods, goddesses, mini bells, and even some shops. Any deity you’re searching for is here. Pick the one you like and pray. This temple is very important for Hindus and has a nice view over the city from the top floor. We then walk on the west bank of the Ganges towards the ghats, a couple of kms away.
On the way we meet many foreigners that came here on a spiritual quest, in search for “the inner self”, unanswered questions, and the like. Other foreigners seem to have adopted Rishikesh, abandoned the rest of the world in favour of this back to the 70s ambience where fashion has never changed, no need to wash your hair or think about the future. Indians call it ‘pot tourism’. 
Here, everyone has developed their own meaning of life according to the philosophy or revelation of their Guru. Yoga classes abound with different variations and techniques. It is true that Yoga was first practiced in this little village, but what really put it on the world map is the long visit of the Beatles. John Lennon and friends were also curious about meditation, yoga and stayed here some time. Though their experience ended up bitter (some even say their Yogi was a scam) it is said that many groupies have followed them there and are still here until today. The city is very nice and quiet. Unlike Pushkar which is also a hippy style haven, you don’t get constantly harassed and have rather a good feeling.
We walk toward the Ghats and stumble on a magnificent sculpture of Krishna.
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After lunch, we head for one Ayurvedic massage for Jérémie with a hairy, bandana-wearing, smiling Indian, while I go for a pedicure and foot henna. I had to walk barefoot to the car as I couldn’t wear my shoes with the non dry henna paste on.
We really liked the city.
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Tips:
Lunch to be had at Green Italy, a restaurant on the main ghat inside a jewellery store. Not to be confused with the Little Italy in Green Hotel, where food is not good.
Diner at our hotel. Nice buffet.
Rishikesh is a 45 mns drive from Haridwar.
You should not pay more than 300 RS for a 1 hour Ayurvedic massage and not more than 100 RS for feet Henna
09 octobre 2006
People of Haridwar 2
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07 octobre 2006
Enjoying Aarti
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Coming to Haridwar was total improvisation. So we are kind of lost in that city as to what are the good spots to go to. 
We grab a brochure in our hotel room and decide to go to the Manasa Devi temple by cable car. A nice experience overlooking the city and the Ganges. On top of the mountain, people rush to pay their respects to many deities. It is a shrine dedicated to Mansa Devi, wife of Nag King Vasuku. Little by little, we start to recognize the top stars: Krishna is always with a music instrument and many times coloured in blue but not really a Jimi Hendrix; Hannuman has a monkey face and of course Ganesh, the most famous due to its funny Dumbo face and big belly. 
Around an indoor tree, believers decorate the branches with ready-for-use cloth thread that has given the tree a red and orange colour. On the way to the hotel we forget ourselves for some time in the streets that have become a religious bazaar. The Hindus have around 330 million deities, the portraits and statues of a big number of them can be found here. The pilgrims wander at will in the car-free streets. We decide to rest before we get back in action at sundown.
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Like yesterday, it starts raining at exactly the same timing, when everybody is getting ready to go to the ghats for Aarti. 
The rain gets heavier as we arrive to the Hari Ki Pauri Ghat. We stick our heads (and our photo equipment) under a shop’s porch and admire the uncovered misery of monsoon. This word actually comes from the Arabic word for Season: it highlights the importance of the rain, how it became the only ‘season’ the whole process around the agriculture and way of living of people.
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The rain stops; the crowd flows towards the ghats. The floor has become a river of its own, but never mind, we leave our shoes, roll up our pants and head to a marvellous location: a small temple a few steps on the river. 
Families gather around otherwise unrecognizable priests. We are busy observing and taking pictures. Bells start ringing, believers begin to approach the water more and more. The bell rings are more intense now. The main priest starts praying out loud in this huge outdoor holy place. There are people on both sides of the rivers, on the road overlooking the ghats, a crowd of… Indian size!! Some priests hold a big metal object similar to a candlestick on fire. Families gather next to the priest and grab the object, feet in the water. We don’t understand exactly what it means but suspect the candlestick contains the ashes of a close relative that the priest throws in the Ganges. These days, cremation has become expensive for the average Indian as it requires lots of wood. Some do the cremation in less expensive ways and carry the ashes to the Ganges. 
Others have reported seeing bodies floating and then disappearing with the flow of the river. The atmosphere becomes really touching as the bell rings intensify and the crowd chants. Everyone holds their breath awaiting the signal. All you can see is the reflection of candles and ashes burning in the eyes of fervent believers. At 7:30, the banana leaf and flower arrangements start their uncertain ride on the waters. This is one of the most enchanting moments in our trip so far. The tension is released, many jump in the water and start to wash frantically like snakes wanting to get rid of their old skins…
Believers confide in the Ganges. They uncover their misery, deceptions, and untold secrets of their human souls, with humility, eyes facing downwards. As the sins are left to sink and flowers float on the surface, their bodies become lighter and their face shines with the reflection of the candles on the opaque waters. Suddenly, the fervour and humility dissipates into genuine joy. Smiles and water splashing games: as innocent children, they emerge from this experience. Purified.
Tips:
Lunch at Big Ben restaurant. Air conditioned restaurant. Food ok.
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06 octobre 2006
People of Haridwar
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05 octobre 2006
Haridwar
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After a 5 hour car trip, we arrive in a chaotic parking lot near the riverbank. We start walking in search for a restaurant and a place to stay without much success, and as we do, we observe and take pictures. 
We finally settle for the Haveli Hari Ganga which reveals to be an incredibly charming place to stay. We head out for aarti. Around 7 a.m. and 7 p.m. everyday, this ceremony is performed by thousands of pilgrims no matter what the weather conditions are. As we leave, it starts pouring heavily. We manage to grab an umbrella and walk until the bridge near Har-Ki-Pauri, the city’s most sacred ghat. Thousands of pilgrims are already here. They come under the rain, struggling not to slide on the slippery grounds of the ghats. The rain had washed away the dirt on their feet, the dust and cow dung from the streets. It seems to highlight the differences among people.
People from Haridwar seem to be accustomed to the monsoon rains occurring at this time and hid patiently in front of shops that became temporary shelters; pilgrims count people from all over India as well as Indians who live abroad. 
You recognize those by their clothing and loud English, as if they did not wish to be confused with the rest, the unfortunate, the poor. The most fortunate have umbrellas while others could only afford a plastic bag. Saddhus and street dwellers could not care less: they stand quietly on the floor or under a piece of cloth. Some tourists are looking in vain for a rickshaw and finally settle under the bridge. The ceremony is to start soon. A priest of uncertain honesty grabs us to perform aarti. It does not matter whether we want to do it or not. But we say why not. So he gets a basket of flowers wrapped in banana leaves (5 roupies), and we manage to get not without pain on the edge of the waters. Keeping our balance is another difficult story. 
The priest lit out candle, put a bunch of flowers in each of our hands and starts reciting a prayer starting with Om, that we have to repeat, interrupted with questions such as “what’s the name of your father, your mother, your brother,” etc… We do as he says not without winks to each other. Then we take water in our hands and throw it with the flowers in the river. With our feet and ankles in the waters, we feel the temperature changing suddenly from very cold to very hot and vice versa. I don’t find an explanation for this. We finally throw the basket in the water along with other pilgrims.
We wander around on the bridge to take some pictures. Touts or maybe not, numerous people approach us to donate to this or that temple or charity organisation. A useful thing to do is to keep a receipt handy in your pocket to show that you already did your religious duty. We wander around the crowded ghats. Some people are bathing, not shy to expose their bodies. Some elderly women could easily win a wet t-shirt contest! An amazing sight.
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Tips:
Hotel Haveli Hari Ganga: wonderful place to stay on the riverbanks. Rooms are beautifully decorated and the service is 5 stars. 2650 Rps all included. There’s a nice spa on the rooftop as well.
Dinner at the hotel
