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20 juin 2008

Hiroshima, heavy with history and tragedy

Hiroshima_after_the_bomb

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A southern city, small by Japanese standards, with around 1 million inhabitants, Hiroshima conveys a unique and tragic memory on the worldwide maps and history books since August 1945. Today, we forget that we are on a fantastic visit to Japan. We go back in time to revisit one of the darkest pages in the history of human kind.

The peace memorial museum presents the masterminds and the historical events that lead to the atomic bombing of Hiroshima and - 3 days later - Nagasaki. Baby_bike_burntThere are vibrating audiovisual testimonies on the aftermath of the bombing, the death and misery, the various unexplainable effects of radiation, and above all, its continued effects until today on the survivors’ lives. The exhibits explain in technical mechanisms and cold indifferent words, the various stages of the nuclear reaction. The last part draws the scary nuclear race, retracing the technologies developed during the cold war until today and the efforts of the Hiroshima and worldwide communities for peace and the abolition of nuclear weapons.

The visit left us speechless and with grim reflections of the future. Beautiful flowers are offered everyday in remembrance of the victims in front of the solemn peace monument.

We are very surprised by the ability of the Japanese to remember the tragedy and equally forgive the world for its indulgence and indifference to the continuous nuclear tests and armament in front of the peace efforts. There are fingers pointed, but very gracefully, with the wiser smile of a parent.

Despite its association with the human tragedy, Hiroshima has long risen from the rubble and is a wonderful city with large avenues, and small buildings on both sides of the river with the streetcars (tramway) that give it an old-time charm.

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The_Dome

On the path of history, we take the earliest train to Nagasaki in the afternoon. Later in the day, we have a nice bike stroll looking for a jazz bar that appears to be closed. We take bikes and ride around and end up in the red light district; lots of prostitutes and salary men, visibly drunk. It’s definitely a very different facet of Japan that we have not seen so far.

With its narrow backside roads, small eateries, and neon lights, Nagasaki has a typical – somehow fishy but full of charm – south east Asian feel.

We continue riding and end up at Ayer’s Rock bar where we sip our ritual cocktails. The place is truly underground, very dark. If techno and DJs are your thing, you’ll love the place.

Tip of the Day

In Hiroshima, we stay at Comfort Hotel, a business hotel. There are three Confort hotel, we stay at the most modern one (slightly more expensive, but still a great bargain – 8400¥). Good service, free bikes, free internet and nice breakfast. Coffee (included espresso) free of charge whenever guests want!

Lunch: at Fukuya shopping mall on the 11th floor at the Italian restaurant, great deal at 1100¥ / person with salad, dessert and a drink. But food is nothing to write home about. Views from the restaurant are great though.

In Hiroshima, we have a drink in a great bar (Opium) that also serves decent basic meal.

A trip by street car in Hiroshima costs only 150¥. It costs 100¥ in Nagasaki.

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