29 mai 2008
From Tokyo to Takayama, a journey through rural Japan
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Before leaving Tokyo, we check the temperatures for Takayama, which look reasonable. We don’t get to see Mount Fuji today either, but later on, as we are far from cities, the scenery is one of the most beautiful I have seen. Dramatic pine forests, narrow shallow valleys, lakes and rivers, surrounded by cloudy mountains and traditional Japanese tiled houses. We arrive pretty late to Takayama and don’t feel like wandering around under the rain.
We take some time to reflect on our itinerary and plan for tomorrow. We have a nice dinner and drinks at Murazaki Izakaya.
Tip of the day:
When taking the train from Tokyo to Nagoya, get a seat on the right hand side of the train. On a clear day, you may be able to spot Sir Fuji. From Nagoya to Takayama (train almost every hour, for a two hours journey), take a seat on the right hand side of the train also. The scenery is superb.
In Takayama, dinner at Murazaki Izakaya, that is a Japanese pub. Inexpensive drinks and food. Nice atmosphere.
Great skewers with rice, cheese and bacon. It’s cold in this city. Be prepared.
26 mai 2008
Edo Museum
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As usual, we keep the best for our last day. At the Edo museum we are lucky to have a nice lady as a tourist guide, in French. The permanent exhibition is very well thought and depicts historical events as well as daily life and traditions in ancient Tokyo. The love of miniatures is evident everywhere. Ms “Samedi” - as she wants us to call her - gives us great insights on lifestyle and historical significance. There is also a section about Tokyo in war times and its evolution towards modern times. A very nice museum, warmly recommended.
Without success, we spend some time looking for the Sumo museum nearby but nobody seems to know where it is. No luck. We got to Tokyo just after the end of the Sumo tournament and everyone in the Sumo business is now taking a rest. Instead, we have lunch next to the JR station, in a sumo stadium setting.
We revisit Harajuku, and Takeshita dori for a last time and take some interesting snaps. An incredibly stylish shop is on our way – Hajori - with vintage clothing, in style. Tokyo style.
It’s rather expensive and we don’t find anything to our liking, but the atypical décor alone is worth a visit.
The nearby Oriental bazaar has nothing of a bazaar and all of a small shopping mall. There are some nice, beautifully displayed souvenirs to be sampled.
Heavy loaded with shopping bags, we take a walk through back roads full of stylish shops, ending with the striking and inspiring architecture of the Prada building.
At this stage, we’re really tired but we don’t want to admit it. It would be a shame to leave Tokyo without spending an evening in Roppongi, one of the main Tokyo’s nightlife district. The night scene is somehow different here with many foreign residents and tourists checking out the atmosphere. We’re a bit early and many bars are still empty. TGI Fridays looks quite animated. We also acknowledge our need for hearty hot food and hop in. The mood is really great and we get a cool barmen show.
After a few drinks, we end up in bed before even thinking of packing our bags for tomorrow’s departure…
23 mai 2008
From China to Sweden (with love)
Yokohama - Tokyo’s “undermined” neighbour - is our destination today. The metropolis is so big, officials apparently are struggling to tell where Tokyo ends and Yokohama starts.
Yokohama is not another big city, shadowed by its older sister’s reputation. It’s a city with its own character and interests. It boasts the largest Chinatown in Japan. Apart from enjoying the fabulous Chinese food, our objective is to find our beloved special Jasmine tea (special as there is a unique blend we are simply addicted to). Some shops seem to have the genuine stuff, but our nose won’t be easily tricked. Eventually, we find a small joint by chance and halleluiah, the perfect Jasmine was patiently awaiting us. We take the opportunity to smell some other teas, and decide for a specific kind of Oolong. We usually are not too keen on Oolong tea, but this one had a wonderful smell and we decide to give it a try.
One street away but two different worlds. In Chinatown the streets are noisy, there are restaurants on all sides of the street, and shops full with bric a brac up to the ceiling. It brings back good memories of our trip there. (Two years ago already, time really flies…)
After a nice lunch in an elegant restaurant, we decide to travel back to Europe. Scandinavia to be more accurate. In Lebanon, I have been checking whether any IKEA shop could be found in this part of the world. None in Tokyo but Yokohama hosts one. Jeremie had no chance but to follow my desire to enjoy my Nordic design favourite. We spend around 4 hours touring the place and eventually buying some nice stuff.
Tip of the day
In Chinatown, cheap tea can be find at around 1000¥/100grs. For genuine, high quality stuff, Jasmine and Oolong can be had at around 3000¥/100 grs. Not cheap but well worth it.
Lunch at Heichinro Honten, in Chinatown main street. Nice setting in this elegant restaurant where you can sample in creative dumplings.
To go to IKEA, take a JR to Shin-Yokohama station (not to be confused with Yokohama station). There is a free IKEA bus shuttle (running back and forth every 20 mns).
19 mai 2008
Looking for MtFuji
We may have broken the record of number of transportation means today. We leave the big city behind, looking for green scenery.
Here we go to Hakone, the place where a lot of Tokyoites go to unwind during the week-end. We experience once again the fabulous Japanese timeliness and organisation when it comes to transportation means. We reach lake Ashi. We left Tokyo with a superb sunshine, meaning big chances to see Mt Fuji. Hakone boasts the best views of the famous mountain. Let me cut the suspense straight away. No Mont Fuji for us today. We see beautiful photos of postcards. What we get is clouds and mists.
At the port, we board an imitation of a 17th century British ship. With all the Japanese comfort of course. The ride on the lake does not take more than 30 mns. We look for Sir Fuji, but nowhere to be seen. The views on the lake are very nice though. We have barely arrived at the other end of the lake that people start queuing to take the funicular. That’s also (with clear weather allowing) a very fine spot to see you-know-what. No chance. It’s windy, cloudy, and now…. rainy!
Ahead of us are some sulphur spots where one can wander around. After two years in volcanic Goma, we can’t really say we did not have our share of volcanic settings. We decide to give it a miss (especially under a heavy rain) and take refuge in the restaurant. We fall in the tourist trap and try the black egg: only the egg shell is black. (what else did we expect?) We try the Japanese pork curry (with noodles for Jeremie and rice for Rita) that turns out to be very tasty.
It’s decidedly cold and we call it a day. We queue to take a cable car so that we can queue to take a train, so that we queue again when we need to take a second train that will lead us to our wait (hey, first in line…) for our Shinkansen.
We head straight to Shibuya - our favourite neighbourhood in Tokyo. We look around for some shops before reaching the Mecca of Manga. Anyone even with a vague interest in comics should have a look at Mandarake. This shop is 3 floors below the street, and when entering, one discover thousands of manga comics, duly distributed. There are also some posters, Tshirts, and figurines. But the bulk of it are mangas; whatever one is looking for, it’s there. Whether new or second hand. Too bad, there are almost none in English.
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Jeremie was very nice today and has deserved his reward: a lengthy tour at Tower Records. This shop is the largest music shop in the world. It’s just massive. Seven stories high, full of CDs. Every genre can be found here; from international pop to techno, from classical to world music, and from jazz to hard rock. The seventh floor is devoted to books and should not be missed. Once again, the choice of books and mangas, all in English, is great.
Tip of the day
Free transport pass for Hakone: weekdays, costs 3900Y, valid for 2 days
Check the website for live situation to check whether the weather is fine. Hakone area lies between 700 and 1000 m high and it can rain heavily there whilst it’s sunshine in Tokyo.
16 mai 2008
A taste of Tokyo's architecture
14 mai 2008
Wandering around
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We wake up rather late today for a non-shopping-mall shopping experience at Ameyoko market, a busy street close to Ueno station. 
There are some nice clothing items but nothing really great, and a lot of food, dried fish, dried squids, sashimi, seaweed, miso paste, etc… We don’t find it impressive for what it is said to be: Asia’s biggest bazaar. We continue our walk to the Ueno park, home to many of Tokyo’s homeless. Today, they seem to be enjoying with everybody else the superb sunshine and the cherry trees in full bloom. It’s hard to understand the importance of cherry blossoms for the Japanese; it marks the first signs of spring, but also, believe it or not, the beginning of the school year, early April, is based on the viewing season for the cherry blossoms.
As we had seen earlier in Kyoto, people are picnicking under the shade, and to do so, they remove their shoes before sitting on a big piece of sheeting with their little bentos.
I wanted to see the panda at the Ueno zoo and so we decided to take a look. The poor panda bear is trying to sleep in a concrete tiled room where some bamboo sticks are left lying on the floor. We did not expect that, but it looks like the panda bear spends some time during the day in an open green space at a later time. We also get to see two polar bears and sad lowland gorillas. In the big recreation area and for the first time since we’re in Japan, we see a big number of children. Tokyo is full of businessmen, fashionable youth, but strangely we don’t see lots of children in the streets or on public transport.
What are the things of interest we want to see or do during the rest of our time in Tokyo? East Shinjuku is one of the places we still didn’t get to explore. At the subway exit, the ‘skyscraper district’ is indicated. This is where we wander around looking at the sky, and everything that surrounds us, taking a smoking pause with Tokyo’s businessmen next to high-rise buildings. The architectural styles and shapes of building are unique and very innovative. Ahead is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building, actually a huge complex, and we have a look at the impressive panorama from the 45th floor. It’s cloudy again and there is no Mount Fuji in sight but a fantastic view over the world’s biggest urban concentration (32 million inhabitants - including Yokohama).
We spend some time in Ginza at the tiny Leica gallery where a nice photo exhibition is on. We then race to catch a Kabuki play at it last show, but failed to get seated tickets. Our feet heavy from shop hopping, we give up and enjoy the night strolling in Ginza and its neon lights everywhere. We finish the day at a Muji shop.
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Tip of the day
We have a disgusting ramen in Shinjuku business area. I don’t think we’ll try another ramen after that. This cheap stuff is not our cup of tea really.
The best tourist information centre you can imagine at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building. Very helpful staff.
Believe it or not, but stunning view for all over Tokyo for free from the top of the Metropolitan Government building.
The zoo can be easily avoided. Watching panda bears in this environment is really not worth it.
Photograph amateurs definitely should stop by Leica gallery. One can see old Leica cameras, as well as interesting (but small) photo exhibition (on the second floor). Leica gallery is one block away from the Sony building, in front of the book shop.
10 mai 2008
From Asakusa’s temples to Odaiba’s game parks
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Our ritual, the 10 min fast walk to the Okachimachi JR station will be discarded today as we will be discovering one of the nearby highlights of Tokyo: Senso-ji temple in Asakusa area. The abundance of tourists proves we are in the right direction.
You can witness the ultimate prototype of Japanese tourists taking pictures (but no need to come to Japan for that). Unexpectedly here, foreign tourists are caught in the game and align to take pictures hastily. The number of shops on the way is astounding. We stop by a nice ukyo-e shop at the beginning of the street.
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In Senso-ji, we encounter a high number of elderly people with their cameras; some are just enjoying the sunshine. The streets surrounding the temple have nicely painted store facades, depicting various scenes of Japanese lifestyles.
The old district with its rickshaws has very pleasant alleys. We continue our walk along the river in the Sumida park and admire the renowned Japanese trademark: cherry blossoms. We’re at the right season and everyone seems to be enjoying walking under the white trees. Initially, we could not say were very fond of cherry blossoms, or let’s say that it was not high on our list. Now we can only admit how beautiful those are and admire the beauty of nature at its best. We have a quick lunch at a sushi conveyor just by the corner next to the pier before embarking on the next boat to Hinode pier.
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As we cross the different bridges, we discover a crowd of buildings on both sides of the river. Odaiba is quite a new neighbourhood. It holds its name from the word ‘daiba’, famous obstacles that the Japanese constructed at the end of the 19th century to obstruct the entrance of big foreign ships. Odaiba island is a nearly perfect obstacle to access the Tokyo bay.
On the other side of the Hinode bridge stands a very displaced monument: the statue of liberty… We stop for a memorable photo pose without even bothering with the additional costs and hassles of a trip to New York! Manhattan moves to Odaiba! We wander around in the main attractions and start with La Palette town where we experience the race simulation at the Mega Web, look with lots of curiosity at the new hybrid concept cars and the Toyota formula one car. Toyota has another design centre where you can try tomorrow’s robots and today’s funky chairs. (not to forget the latest car design for handicapped persons)
Our final destination (very much lobbied for…) is Joypolis, the Sega mega game centre. We take a day pass and spend hours playing games one after the other. We start with the virtual reality games (jungle and river rafting trips) that are a lot of fun, then we warm up with car racing where you are actually in the cars; and bobsleigh. We then try the shooting games where we should eliminate the villains. The church horror show in 3D is also a good one but not for the squeamish. We finish second at the heart racing skating game! At last, we try the triathlon game with all the funny warm up tips given by the employees. Very busy with our games, we realize it’s nearly 11 pm and we’re practically the last customers. We’re somehow disappointed not to be able to play Jack Bauer on 24h challenge and Prison break as both plots are in Japanese.
On the way out, the view leaves us speechless. All the buildings and the Hinode bridge are shining in the night and their reflection on the serene waters of the Sumida river is magic. We stand there for some time and have a cigarette, until, lost in translation, we bump into a nice couple who indicates us the way back home before the last train.
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Tip of the day :
Senso-ji area is a very touristy affair. Don’t expect anything exceptional to buy there.
The river cruise from Asakusa to Hinode Pier costs 720¥. More than one boat per hour. Some boats go directly to Odaiba but best to book in advance.
Joy polis costs day pass costs 3500¥ (only 2500¥ from 5 PM). All games are then free of charge. Opens until 11 PM.
Aqua city Odaiba is a great shopping mall. Special attention to a very nice shop called “3 minutes happiness”.
08 mai 2008
Early fish and geek heaven
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Early in the morning, Tsukiji market hosts an incredible daily action featuring fishermen, wholesalers, workers, fish specialists and around 15,000 of Tokyo’s restaurateurs. The unlucky hosts are the 450 products of the sea which will begin their road to agony on these grounds: tunas, salmons, crabs, clams, eels, squid, seaweed, lobsters, you name it, it’s there. This is no secret, Japanese are fond of fish and sea food. We wake up early and are immersed with the stench under a light rain. Small motor carriers are circulating at high speed, heavy with white polystyrene cartons containing sea products.
From stand to stand, we are amazed at the number of different fish on display. Tuna comes in big frozen blocks from which only the finest parts will be eaten raw. The rest will be sent for packaging and sold as tuna cans. Most of the fish are still alive though. Workers catch them from fish tanks, make a small cut behind the head and with a small metal stick inserted up and down across the spine, carry out their paralysis. They are sold and get to the restaurateurs still alive, but harmless… we witness as some bigger fish do not give up easily and manage to cut their slaughterers.
There are also big aquariums crammed with fish looking at their fellows being butchered. Soon enough they will be all transformed to expensive sashimi or sushi sets in Tokyo’s finest restaurants. Waking up early to observe this highlight of Tokyo, we miss breakfast at the hotel and had planned to have a fresh sashimi breakfast as recommended. Instead, this whole show leaves us nauseated and feeling horribly sorry. We stop for hot coffee and cookies to recover.
Tsukiji is right next door to Ginza - Tokyo’s 5th avenue. As usual, there are lots of shopping malls with the most eminent brand shops we have ever seen. The Sony building has an amazing range of new high quality audiovisual technologies. We have a great time trying all the nice stuff. Another great architectural structure is the Tokyo International Forum, with very futuristic style. We have lunch in one of the nice restaurants inside and get to see a huge number of young ladies in full kimonos, nice hair styles and make-up. They are all very excited, moving around, taking pictures with each other. We take a few (indiscrete) snaps. On our way out we find out from the information office that they have just graduated and it’s a gathering for handing their diplomas.
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We’re pretty tired, but we nevertheless explore Akihabara on our way back to Ueno. This is known as the ‘electric city’. All kinds of appliances can be found there. We land in a completely different part of Tokyowhere tiny shops selling everything from the electric plug to the latest laptop technology. Very big shopping centres are scattered here and there and stuck all kinds of gadgets and futuristic toys. We gaze in front of the tiny laptops and other computer inventions but unfortunately the electricity voltage is not adapted for usage outside Japan.
We get home exhausted in need of a hot bath.
Tip of the Day:
Tsukiji market is best visited early morning, around 7 AM is said to be best, as there are still a lot of action going (many sellers are there). Past 8 AM, not much is happening.
Don’t expect much bargains in Ginza. All expensive brands are in this neighbourhood. Nice art galleries though.
Sony building is great to visit, even for non-geeks. Opens at 11 AM. In Sony building, one can also buy any ticket to No plays, Kabuki, concert, etc.
06 mai 2008
Cos Play Zuku 2
04 mai 2008
Cos Play Zuku
