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7 octobre 2006

Enjoying Aarti

Under_the_Rain

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Coming to Haridwar was total improvisation. So we are kind of lost in that city as to what are the good spots to go to. Rita_at_the_TempleWe grab a brochure in our hotel room and decide to go to the Manasa Devi temple by cable car. A nice experience overlooking the city and the Ganges. On top of the mountain, people rush to pay their respects to many deities. It is a shrine dedicated to Mansa Devi, wife of Nag King Vasuku. Little by little, we start to recognize the top stars: Krishna is always with a music instrument and many times coloured in blue but not really a Jimi Hendrix; Hannuman has a monkey face and of course Ganesh, the most famous due to its funny Dumbo face and big belly. Holy_SmokeAround an indoor tree, believers decorate the branches with ready-for-use cloth thread that has given the tree a red and orange colour. On the way to the hotel we forget ourselves for some time in the streets that have become a religious bazaar. The Hindus have around 330 million deities, the portraits and statues of a big number of them can be found here. The pilgrims wander at will in the car-free streets. We decide to rest before we get back in action at sundown.

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Bathing_in_the_Ganges

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Like yesterday, it starts raining at exactly the same timing, when everybody is getting ready to go to the ghats for Aarti. CelebratingThe rain gets heavier as we arrive to the Hari Ki Pauri Ghat. We stick our heads (and our photo equipment) under a shop’s porch and admire the uncovered misery of monsoon. This word actually comes from the Arabic word for Season: it highlights the importance of the rain, how it became the only ‘season’ the whole process around the agriculture and way of living of people.

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The rain stops; the crowd flows towards the ghats. The floor has become a river of its own, but never mind, we leave our shoes, roll up our pants and head to a marvellous location: a small temple a few steps on the river. In_the_Holy_WaterFamilies gather around otherwise unrecognizable priests. We are busy observing and taking pictures. Bells start ringing, believers begin to approach the water more and more. The bell rings are more intense now. The main priest starts praying out loud in this huge outdoor holy place. There are people on both sides of the rivers, on the road overlooking the ghats, a crowd of… Indian size!! Some priests hold a big metal object similar to a candlestick on fire. Families gather next to the priest and grab the object, feet in the water. We don’t understand exactly what it means but suspect the candlestick contains the ashes of a close relative that the priest throws in the Ganges. These days, cremation has become expensive for the average Indian as it requires lots of wood. Some do the cremation in less expensive ways and carry the ashes to the Ganges. The_GangesOthers have reported seeing bodies floating and then disappearing with the flow of the river. The atmosphere becomes really touching as the bell rings intensify and the crowd chants. Everyone holds their breath awaiting the signal. All you can see is the reflection of candles and ashes burning in the eyes of fervent believers. At 7:30, the banana leaf and flower arrangements start their uncertain ride on the waters. This is one of the most enchanting moments in our trip so far. The tension is released, many jump in the water and start to wash frantically like snakes wanting to get rid of their old skins…

Holy_FireBelievers confide in the Ganges. They uncover their misery, deceptions, and untold secrets of their human souls, with humility, eyes facing downwards. As the sins are left to sink and flowers float on the surface, their bodies become lighter and their face shines with the reflection of the candles on the opaque waters. Suddenly, the fervour and humility dissipates into genuine joy. Smiles and water splashing games: as innocent children, they emerge from this experience. Purified.

Tips:

Lunch at Big Ben restaurant. Air conditioned restaurant. Food ok.

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Faith

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