Ramdevra, the Pilgrimage

.

For almost a week, we’ve seen pilgrims walking along the road. For hundreds of kilometres. Our curiosity run high and really wanted to make it until their final destination. Ramdevra is normally a desolate and windswept desert village. With the annual pilgrimage, it’s become an extraordinary lively and colourful city. Its important temple is dedicated to deified local hero Ramdev, who lived in the Middle Ages. He was born in Tanwar village to a Rajput family and was opposed to all forms of untouchability, believing that all human beings are equal. He took Samadhi (an ecstatic state involving conscious exit from the body in 1458. Ramdev is worshipped by both Hindus and Muslims. Devotees place model horses in the temple in honour of the holy man’s trusty steed, who carried him around when he was doing his good works.

We wander around randomly around the pilgrims. We are the only foreigners in town, and somewhat the attraction. It’s a very special day for everyone and lots of people insist we take their pictures. It will prove impossible to enter the temple. There are literally thousands of people queuing to enter the temple. It would have taken us the full day to enter. Everyone is calm, smiling, and happy to have made it to the end of the pilgrimage, and about to enter the holy temple. It’s no small performance. The heat is unbearable. Walking for weeks, sometimes barefoot, under such conditions is not an easy affair. As we approach the temple’s entry, we see another man lying on the floor. Certainly another pilgrim to have come here that way.

An extraordinary experience. We stay a couple of hours, an experience we have not had in any other place.

India’s religiosity can be strongly felt during Ramdevra’s pilgrimage.

We arrive at Bikaner, a busy, dusty, crowded, hot city, in the middle of the desert. The city does not have much interest, nor charm. Though some neighbourhoods truly have a great feeling, when sun goes down. The city is encircled by a 7 km long wall with five entrance gates that was constructed in the 18^th century. The city is famed for its fort and palace as well as maharaja’s various superb residences. The city was founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, a descendant of Jodha, Jodhpur’s founder, and was aot(her important staging post on the great caravan trade routes. Being closer to Delhi, Bikaner spent more time fighting the Mughals tha other Rajasthan cities, but its harsh desert surroundings helped to defeat may of its enemies.

.

.