Jaisalmer

.

About 7 kms north of Jaisalmer, Bada Bagh is a fertile oasis. There are cenotaphs that carved ceilings and equestrian statues of former rulers. The place does not present much interest and we do not last long. The whole region is scattered with windmills that supply military barracks with electricity (we’re quite close to the border with Pakistan).

Amar Sagar is not very far away. There is not much interest in here either, with the exception of a Jain temple that has some nice sculptures. Those two sites do not deserve the trip itself, except if you have lots of time available.

Jaisalmer has fine Havelis. One of the most interesting is Salim Singh-ki Haveli. It has a distinctive and fascinating architecture with beautiful arched roof and superb carvings. Salim Singh was a notorious prime minister of Jaisalmer who murdered his father’s own murderers. His rule was harsh and he became so powerful he built this 6 storey Haveli a symbol of his power. A statue of an elephant – symbol of power – was erected at the entrance. He even wanted to build a bridge between his house and the fort. He got murdered before being able to complete his project.

The guide is included in the entrance price (only 15Rs), and explanations are greatly detailed if you request it. (The guide is worth tipping btw). The Haveli has a great choice of fragrances one can buy, at good price.

The Haveli’s whole neighbourhood is very nice to wander around. No shops, nor touts. That may well be the genuine Jaisalmer we were searching for. (The Gandhi Chowk area and the fort itself are far too touristy)

.

.

Tips:

Lunch at Natraj restaurant: good food, good service though a bit slow, but friendly and smiling staff.

We find the prices of souvenirs and textiles sensibly lower and more reasonable than other cities. The prices in Udaipur tend to be the highest.

Most people who come to Jaisalmer aim for a camel ride. Be aware that the whole thing is very touristy, and you are quite unlikely to have a lonely desert experience. For a more genuine camel trek, one may wish to organise this in less travelled locations (such as Bikaner or in a small villages en route)

.

.