Jaisalmer's Palace

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Before the heat hit the city, we head towards Jaisalmer’s fort. Within its walls is a warren of narrow, paved streets complete with Jain temple and the old palace. Built in 1156 by the Rajpout ruler Jaisala and reinforced by subsequent rulers, the fort was the focus of a number of battles between the Bhattis, the Mughals of Delhi and the Rathores of Jodhpur. One enters the fort through a series of massive gates leading to a large courtyard. Jaisalmer is a living fort, a quarter of its population resides within its walls. It’s packed with houses, temples, but also shops, shops and shops. There are some nice views from the fort’s walls though the best are from the palace’s rooftop.

Within the palace are some fine Jain temples, though quite crowded with tourists. Temples are fine, though nothing as compared to Ranakpur (mmmmh, looks like we’ve become demanding now when it comes to Jain temples). There are statues of all kinds and postures and from the top, the view over the city and surrounding desert is great. The Jains constitute only 1 % of India’s population and are known for their devotion to animals: they sweep the floor before walking to make sure they do not harm ants and small beings. You also have to leave all leather items before you enter as leather symbolises dead animals.

Towering over the fort’s main courtyards is the former maharaja’s elegant seven storey palace. There are superb rooms including the Hall of Private audience, and maharaja’s private chamber. From the roof you ca see an oasis with plenty of trees around.

Today is a very special day all over India. It is Lord Krishna’s birthday. And it’s widely celebrated. People pay their respect in temples, and there are fireworks at nights, with music crying out loud from lousy speakers. Every few households have gathered in their respective neighbourhoods around a table or staircase where a fervent display of mini-statues, candles, incense, and other random kitsch items constituted the little praying ground for children and grown up devotes. We wander around to take some pictures and try not to confuse the different deities: Vishnu become Vrishna while Krishna becomes Kishnu, etc. Later on some fireworks joined the celebration feast and we were guided by the music to the temples.

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Tips:

Lunch at Little Italy, housed in the old fort wall (just at the main gate). Great setting for this cheap and atmospheric vegetarian Italian restaurant. Bruschettas are superb. Good food. Recommended.

Diner at Saffron restaurant, at the Nanchana Haveli. Nice setting, good service, good food. Recommended.

Try to visit the fort in the morning or late afternoon, as it is hot.

Watch out for Jain temple timetable. To be sure, visit between 11 am and noon.

Don’t hire a guide at the entrance of the fort. Jain temples can easily be found. And there are free audio guide available for the palace’s visit. (Included in the palace’s entrance fee)

It is hot in Jaisalmer between noon and 4pm. Very hot. Best to stick by a pool during those times.

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